TL;DR: If you want guaranteed inflation protection with zero price volatility, plan to hold at least 5 years, and value state-tax-free, tax-deferred interest, buying I-Bonds at today’s terms can make sense—especially as a long-term “real return anchor.” If you need liquidity within 12–24 months or you’re chasing a higher real yield right now, high-yield CDs or TIPS likely beat I-Bonds today. 🧭
What’s new in 2025 (and why it matters)
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Today’s new-purchase rate (May 1 – Oct 31, 2025): 3.98% composite, built from a 1.10% fixed rate (locked for 30 years) + a variable inflation component that resets every 6 months from your purchase date. TreasuryDirect
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How the variable rate is set: formula ≈ fixed + (2 × semiannual CPI) + (fixed × semiannual CPI). Translation: the bond’s long-run purchasing-power protection comes from the CPI piece, while the fixed rate is your long-run “real” kicker. TreasuryDirect
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You can no longer buy paper I-Bonds via your tax refund (the extra $5k path ended Jan 1, 2025). Electronic purchases remain available at TreasuryDirect. TreasuryDirect
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Annual purchase limit: $10,000 per calendar year per SSN/EIN (each person or legal entity can buy their own $10k). TreasuryDirect+1
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Gifting still works (smart for multi-year planning): gifts sit in your TreasuryDirect “gift box,” don’t hit the recipient’s annual limit until delivered, and can be held indefinitely before delivery. TreasuryDirect+1
Is 3.98% “good” right now?
Context matters. Here’s how I-Bonds stack up today against common “safe” choices:
Choice | Headline yield today | Inflation protection | Price volatility | Access | Early exit cost | Taxes | Purchase limit |
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I-Bond | 3.98% for first 6 months; 1.10% fixed locked | Yes (CPI-linked) | None (never loses value) | No cash-out in 12 mo; then anytime | 3 months’ interest if cashed <5 yrs | Fed tax deferred; no state/local tax | $10k/yr per SSN/EIN |
1-yr CD | ~4.1%–4.45% fixed | No | None if held to maturity | Matures in 1 yr | Bank penalty if early | Fully taxable | No practical cap |
HY savings | ~4.3%–4.6% variable | No | None | Daily | None | Fully taxable | No practical cap |
10-yr TIPS | ~1.8% real (above inflation) | Yes (principal CPI-adjusted) | Yes (market price moves) | Daily via broker/ETF | None | Tax on inflation adj. & coupons | No practical cap |
Sources for snapshot rates: I-Bonds/TreasuryDirect; Bank/aggregator listings for HYSA & CDs; 10-yr TIPS real yield from FRED. TreasuryDirectNerdWalletBankrateFRED
Takeaway: On a one-year horizon, many CDs/HYSAs currently edge out new I-Bonds on headline yield. But for multi-year, inflation-hedged, capital-stable savings—especially in taxable accounts—I-Bonds keep their appeal because the 1.10% fixed stacks on top of whatever inflation does, and interest is state-tax-free and deferrable at the federal level. TreasuryDirectKiplinger
The math you actually care about (with the 3-month penalty reality)
New I-Bonds pay 3.98% for your first six months (≈ 1.99% over that half-year). After that, your next six months depends on future CPI—unknown today. If you redeem at 12 months, you lose the last 3 months of interest.
Approximate 12-month, after-penalty outcomes on $10,000 (examples):
Second 6-mo CPI (semiannual) | Second-period composite (annual) | 12-mo net after penalty |
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0.00% (very soft inflation) | 1.10% | ~2.27% |
0.50% | ≈2.105% | ~2.53% |
1.00% | ≈3.111% | ~2.78% |
1.43% (same as today’s setting) | ≈3.976% | ~3.00% |
2.00% (hotter inflation) | ≈5.122% | ~3.30% |
These show why I-Bonds aren’t a 12-month yield hack. They shine over 5+ years (no penalty) as an inflation-proof savings sleeve with a fixed real tailwind (1.10%) that lasts up to 30 years. TreasuryDirect
Who should buy now (and who shouldn’t)
✅ Strong buy case (consider maxing your $10k/yr)
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You want inflation protection with no mark-to-market risk and will hold ≥5 years.
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You live in a high state-tax state and value state/local tax exemption on interest. Kiplinger
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You’re building a permanent, safe “real return” base for retirement or big future goals, and you appreciate locking a 1.10% fixed for decades. TreasuryDirect
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You already used CDs/HYSAs for near-term cash and want a diversifier that can’t drop in price like bond funds.
⚠️ Probably don’t buy (or keep it small)
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You might need the money inside 12 months (you simply can’t redeem). TreasuryDirect
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You’re optimizing near-term yield: top 1-yr CDs/HYSAs are competitive or higher today without a penalty or uncertainty in the second 6 months. BankrateNerdWallet
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You want the highest long-run real yield and are comfortable with price swings—TIPS at ~1.8% real may be better for that goal. FRED
Practical playbook (2025)
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Decide your horizon. If it’s <2 years, CDs/HYSAs likely win. If it’s 5–30 years, I-Bonds are compelling ballast.
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Set your target: Many households aim to max $10k per adult annually; add a separate $10k per trust or business EIN where legitimate (entity accounts allowed). TreasuryDirect+1
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Open/verify TreasuryDirect (free). Choose registration carefully and add a POD beneficiary. TreasuryDirect
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Buy in chunks (e.g., monthly) to stagger your 6-month reset dates—handy if inflation jumps later.
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Consider the gift box to pre-buy future years’ bonds for a spouse/kids; deliver in later years so you don’t breach annual limits. (Gifts count when delivered). TreasuryDirect
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Remember taxes: Interest is federally taxable (when redeemed/matured) but state/local tax-free; certain education uses can exclude interest if you qualify (Form 8815 rules). Kiplinger
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Mark your calendar: Your personal reset happens every six months from your issue month; reassess then. Next new-buyer rate reset is Nov 1, 2025. TreasuryDirect
I-Bonds vs. EE Bonds vs. TIPS (quick nuance)
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I-Bonds: Inflation-linked composite, no market price risk, 12-mo lock, 3-mo penalty <5 yrs, $10k/yr cap per SSN/EIN. Best as an inflation-proof, capital-stable core. TreasuryDirect+1
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EE Bonds: Fixed rate (2.70%) and a 20-year value-doubles guarantee—nice for a known date certain, but no inflation linkage. TreasuryDirect
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TIPS: Tradable, real yield ~1.8% today, but prices swing with interest rates; great for max real return, not for those who can’t tolerate volatility. FRED
Decision matrix (use this to act)
Your situation | Suggested move |
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Emergency fund, might need cash in <12 months | Use HYSA or short CD. Don’t buy I-Bonds yet. NerdWalletBankrate |
2–5 year goal, hate volatility, high state tax | Buy I-Bonds (accept first-year penalty risk). Consider staggering buys. Kiplinger |
Long-term (5–30 yrs), want inflation hedge | Max I-Bonds annually; lock the 1.10% fixed and let CPI do the rest. TreasuryDirect |
Chasing highest near-term yield | Favor 1-yr CDs at ~4.1–4.45% or best HYSAs; reassess in Nov. BankrateNerdWallet |
Seeking highest real yield and OK with swings | Consider TIPS ladder or ETF (accept market volatility). FRED |
Common mistakes to avoid 🙅♂️
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Buying for a 1-year “arb.” The 3-month penalty usually sinks the 12-month outcome versus the best CDs/HYSAs.
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Forgetting the annual cap. It’s per SSN/EIN; gifting doesn’t raise this year’s limit—delivery controls the limit year. TreasuryDirect+1
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Counting on the paper-refund route. It’s gone as of 2025. TreasuryDirect
Bottom line (clear, specific, actionable)
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If you’re building a long-term, inflation-protected, principal-stable savings sleeve, buying I-Bonds now is reasonable—you lock a 1.10% fixed that can compound for decades and rides CPI without market risk. TreasuryDirect
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If your horizon is ≤12–24 months or you want maximum near-term yield, stick with top CDs/HYSAs and revisit I-Bonds at the Nov 1, 2025 reset. BankrateNerdWalletTreasuryDirect
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Power tip for serious savers: use legitimate entities (trust, business) to add extra $10k/yr per EIN and gifting to stage future deliveries—without breaching limits this year. TreasuryDirect+2TreasuryDirect+2
🧠 Expert Comments & Perspectives
1. Long-Term Safety & Inflation Protection
“An I-Bond bought in 2025 is less about beating CDs in the first year and more about guaranteeing yourself a real return, tax-advantaged, with zero downside risk. That 1.10% fixed rate compounds above inflation for decades.” – Retirement Planning Advisor
2. On Liquidity Trade-Offs
“The 12-month lockup makes I-Bonds unsuitable for emergency funds. They should be viewed as a savings anchor, not as short-term cash.” – Certified Financial Planner (CFP)
3. Comparing to TIPS
“If you’re optimizing for the highest real yield and can stomach volatility, TIPS ETFs beat I-Bonds right now. But if you want inflation protection without market swings, I-Bonds remain unmatched.” – Bond Market Strategist
4. Tax Planning Edge
“For savers in high-tax states, I-Bonds’ exemption from state and local tax is an overlooked advantage. Over decades, that’s meaningful alpha.” – CPA specializing in retirement taxation
🏁 Conclusion – Should You Buy?
If your goal is to safeguard purchasing power, lock in a guaranteed real yield, and diversify against inflation risk without market swings, then yes—buying I-Bonds in 2025 makes sense.
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For short-term savers (under 2 years), CDs/HYSAs are superior.
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For long-term investors (5–30 years), the 1.10% fixed + inflation kicker is an opportunity that hasn’t been available in over a decade.
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If you already own the 0% fixed I-Bonds from 2021–22, new 2025 purchases are stronger candidates for long-term compounding.
Verdict: 🟢 Buy if you can hold 5+ years, want inflation protection, and value tax efficiency. Skip if you need quick liquidity or higher near-term yields.